LIP TREATMENT: Infield "lips" (the accumulated build-up of infield dirt and conditioner in the grass edges) are a concern on every baseball field. Preventative maintenance is a must in order to keep a flat, safe playing surface. A great way to prevent lip build-up? Move the dirt back into the infield areas.

HOW TO DO IT: After each field use, take a leaf rake and relocate any dirt from the grass edges back into the infield. Concentrate on the baselines, the 1st base and 3rd base cutouts, and around the pitcher’s mound and home plate. Brooms also work well, but can be damaging to the grass if used on a daily basis. They should only be used once a week or so, to do a more thorough job. Leaf blowers also work in blowing the dirt out of the grass but are a more expensive option.

WHAT’S HEALTHY: Your irrigation system is the key to creating a dense, healthy, water-efficient stand of grass. In the sports turf industry, the general rule is to irrigate 1 inch of water per week to your field. Environmental factors like wind, temperature, humidity, rain in mind may determine the amount of weekly watering.

THE "SQUISH" TEST: A simple way to know if you’re watering your field enough? Step on the grass with your foot, squishing the grass blades down. If the grass blades don’t immediately return to an upright position, you’ll likely see a defined imprint of your foot. This means that irrigation is slightly past due. Be sure to water these localized, "stressed" areas with a hose.

5. KENTUCKY BLUEGRASS TURF GRASS: A simple, effective, affordable fertilizer program

START IN THE SPRING: A springtime fertilizer application is necessary to "wake up" your dormant turf. You can do this as early as March, but for cost purposes, you may want to wait until mid-late April. Conveniently, this is also the time frame that a pre-emergent herbicide application is necessary to prevent crabgrass. There are numerous granular products available from your local home and garden center. At this time of year, stores will be heavily stocked with fertilizers that contain the "crabgrass preventer" you’ll want to use. Read the label on the bag and follow the instructions accordingly.

WEED CONTROL: Around the first of June, plan on your next fertilizer application. Retailers will be stocking the ideal products for that time of year. This is a great time to apply a fertilizer containing a broadleaf weed control, since weeds such as dandelions and white clover are likely emerging. Read and follow the instructions on the bag. The particular fertilizer in this combination is also designed for the growth of deep and strong root structures…critical to surviving summer heat stress.

STOP GRUBS: The end of July or the first of August is an ideal time for your next fertilization. If you have irrigated turf, you may want to explore fertilizers containing a white grub insecticide. Either way, it’s simply a good time to give that turf a feeding to strengthen it and help it out- compete any weeds that may be trying to rear their ugly faces. Retailers will be stocked with the ideal product.

ONE MORE TIME: One last fertilization is recommended sometime in mid-late fall. Late October is best. This is the time of year that your turf is storing reserves in its roots for winter survival. Most retailers will be selling a fertilizer with "winter guard," or a similar term on the bag. This application will be most noticeable come springtime, as your turf will start feeding off of those winter reserves and will begin its "green-up" earlier than a non-fall-fertilized area of turf.

END NOTE: This is a very basic (and, hopefully, affordable) fertilization program. At the professional level, factors like turf disease, insects and weed control become very expensive. Where these problems need to be avoided, it’s recommended to keep the mowers’ height of cut at 1.25 inches or higher. Also, be cautious with irrigation: lean toward the drier side. With all of these considerations, you should have a nice stand of turf.

THE RISKS: Low areas and holes can pose a serious safety concern to players. Identifying these areas is the first step towards fixing them. Remove existing turf and add soil underneath the grass and install old grass or replace it with new sod to bring it back to proper levels. If the area isn’t large enough to warrant using this method, try "topdressing." Simply spread top soil evenly over the area (be sure you can still see the tops of the grass blades).

ADD TOPSOIL: In most cases, topsoil should be added .25 of an inch at a time and repeated every two weeks. This will reduce the stress on the grass as it grows into each new layer. Use rakes or an infield drag to level out the soil. This is a great time to re-seed because you have seed-to-soil contact, and seed germination will help prevent weeds from growing into these areas. Don’t forget to water the new seed.

FERTILIZE: If your budget allows, use a starter fertilizer to help promote seedling growth. The goal is to allow existing turf to grow up into each new layer of topsoil. This is a low-cost solution, and a lot easier on your back. The best time of year to do this renovation? Spring or early fall, when temperatures are mild and precipitation is more likely.

PREVENT IT: The best way to control crabgrass in Kentucky Bluegrass turf? Don’t let it get started. Once it does, it’s a nightmare. When the first of April hits, start monitoring your soil temperatures. Purchase a turkey thermometer from your local grocery store, stick it in the ground and check the soil temperature. This time of year, you’ll likely be in the 40-45 degree range. Check your temps every other day. By the end of the month, on average, you’ll be at 50 or so degrees.

BE READY: Crabgrass germinates at 52 degrees. When your reading reaches 50-51 degrees, get fertilizer with crabgrass prevent, a product readily available at larger home and garden centers. By monitoring your soil temperatures, you’re ensured to get the maximum efficacy out of your pre-emergent fertilizer application. This will cover your bases for about 90 days, the prime growing period for crabgrass in the northern half of the country.

PROTECT GOAL AREAS: Soccer goals receive a lot of wear and tear throughout a season. The key to minimizing turf damage in those areas is being able to rotate field usage and controlling the amount of play in these areas. This gives the turf time for recovery. If that’s not always possible, don’t despair. Get aggressive with aerating (punching holes in the ground), fertilizing, topdressing and consistently seeding these areas. Spread seed out in these areas by hand before or after a game, and allow players to cleat it in. This will allow adequate seed-soil contact. With proper moisture you should see germination.

ROTATE: Always try to minimize traffic in these areas and use them only for games. For practice, try to use less-trafficked areas. This should help you keep up with the amount of play on your field. Don’t forget to communicate with coaches; explain your maintenance approaches and realistic expectations for these areas.

STAY SMOOTH: To maintain a smooth, level surface, it’s necessary to drag the infield after every practice and game. When dragging, stay approximately 6 inches away from the edges, so the infield dirt isn’t thrown into the grass.

ALTERNATE ROUTES: It’s important to alternate dragging patterns, and to have different start and stop points on a regular basis. This prevents the infield from having high and low spots. And, it helps keep the infield from getting a "groove" from being dragged the same way every time. For example, start at 1st base one day and follow the back arc. The next day, start at the 3rd base side and drag in a circular overlapping fashion. Also, always remember to carry the drag onto the infield before using it. Don’t drag it through the grass for entry and exit.

REMOVE BY HAND: The safest way to eradicate weeds in your warning track is to remove them mechanically, i.e., by pulling them. However, this technique can be hard on your back. An easier, but potentially hazardous, method is to remove them chemically with a non-selective herbicide. Non-selective herbicides (like Round-Up, readily available for purchase at any local lawn and garden center) will kill nearly every type of grass, ornamental and woody vegetation they come into contact with.

USING CHEMICALS: Be sure to carefully follow the instructions on the label about applying chemicals. Also, post a sign on the field indicating that it has been chemically treated.

THE BENEFITS: Calcined clay is non-binding, so it won’t harden up like regular clay. This helps prevent skinned knees and elbows when ball players are sliding into bases. The conditioner normally comes in 50-pound bags and should be spread out over the entire dirt-skinned areas of the field. Using rakes and mat drags will help spread out the material as well.